Gallery: Installing a Glen-Ray Radiator in an A-Body


In April, our 1967 Dart had just popped the radiator’s upper tank for the third time. The frustration of constantly removing and reinstalling the radiator only to have another failure led us to seek an alternative. The answer was getting an all-new Glen-ray Radiators, Inc. radiator.

Above Left: The Glen-ray radiator is an excellent example of how a factory radiator should appear. Above Center: The top tank came with all the correct stampings. We selected part number 2785973, a perfect match for our ’67 Dart. Above Right: The radiator included an overflow rubber hose to route expelled coolant. 

Our excitement about getting a quality radiator with the correct tanks and stampings was quelled when the Glen-ray reps told us it was not immediately available. However, we were told it would be ready for the Chryslers at Carlisle event in July, and we could save the shipping charges if we picked it up in person.

Above Left: The radiator came with the correct mounting bolts (for the radiator and shroud) and shroud clips. Also, a pair of wire ring hose clamps were included (not photographed). Above Right: The Champion radiator has worked well for several months. The stealthy black look made the radiator appear stock, but we wanted a factory radiator. 

With a radiator from Glen-ray available in a few months, we needed a solution to tide us over. We found a Champion aluminum radiator, and it was a lifesaver. The radiator fit perfectly and cooled efficiently, and with a fresh coat of black paint, it blended seamlessly in our engine bay until we picked up our Glen-ray radiator. The only downside was that it was designed for an electric fan and shroud, so we could not use the factory mechanical fan shroud for the interim period.

When we ordered our Glen-ray radiator, we spoke with Bob Schirmer, who informed us that our original radiator part number was not one he carried. Our radiator was a high-altitude core structure specifically designed to perform optimally at elevated heights (even though the Dart was assembled and sold in Los Angeles). After some discussion and seeing we were not overly concerned with the original part numbers, we settled on a 1967 Dart radiator (part number 2785973) with provisions for an automatic transmission cooler.

Above Left: We needed to drain the coolant to remove the Champion radiator. Above Right: The two transmission lines also needed to be disconnected. We capped the lines to prevent a loss of transmission fluid. 

Above Left: The mounting bolts securing the Champion radiator to the radiator support were removed. Above Right: While we were working on removing the radiator, we decided to pull and repair the damaged radiator support bracket. How the bracket got bent is unknown, but it appeared to be an easy fix.

At Carlisle, our first task was to pick up the radiator. When we found the Glen-ray trailer, we introduced ourselves. The Glen-ray reps had about 25 to 30 radiators in the trailer that were sold and ready for pickup. Ours was one of them. We unboxed the radiator to ensure it was what we needed. The stampings were correct. Additionally, the radiator came with the period correct radiator cap and the mounting screws for the radiator and the shroud. Also included were the correct style single-wire hose clamps.

Above Left: We loosely threaded in the two lower new radiator mounting bolts, which matched the original bolts. Above Right: We installed the shroud mounting clips onto the tabs of the radiator brackets. With a little push, the clips slipped onto the radiator.  

Once we got the radiator to the shop, we again removed the radiator from the box and ensured the factory radiator shroud would mount to the housing correctly. The shroud lined up as it should have, and the shroud mounting clips and bolts were correct. After installing the clips, the bolts adequately held the shroud in place.

Above Left: The radiator came with two overflow hose retention clips. Instead of using the hose supplied with the new radiator, we used the hose previously installed with the Mancini Racing overflow tank. Above Right: The upper clip retained the hose so it would not move freely, keeping it from the fan and belts.

Above Left: The overflow hose was attached to the radiator filler neck. The radiator cap had the correct 16-psi rating and stampings. Above Right: The cap and hose have a factory appearance. 

Our installation of the Glen-ray radiator started with the removal of the Champion radiator. We began by draining the coolant from the radiator. Then, we detached the upper hose, lower hose, coolant overflow hose, and transmission lines. Next, we disconnected the shroud fasteners and laid the shroud over the fan. Continuing, we loosened but did not wholly unthread the lower radiator mounting bolts. Moving to the top of the radiator, we unthreaded the upper mounting bolts. Lastly, we lifted the radiator straight up, freeing it from the engine bay.

Above Left: The four new shroud bolts easily secured the shroud to the radiator. Above Center: The inlet and outlet ports of the radiator were in the factory locations, which made reinstalling the upper and lower hoses a simple task. Above Right: Just like the hose inlet and outlets, the alignment of the transmission lines to the fittings was exact. We secured both cooler line fittings. 

After removing the two lower radiator mounting bolts, we installed two of the four new bolts supplied with the new radiator. With the bolts loosely installed, we hoisted the Glen-ray radiator over the Dart’s radiator support and slipped it over the two mounting bolts. We secured the top of the radiator to the radiator support with the other two new mounting bolts.

Above Left: The radiator support bracket was reshaped and reinstalled. It fits correctly and looks much better. Above Center: With the bracket straightened, the passenger side transmission line no longer rested on it. Above Right: The lower retainer clip retained the overflow hose from the overflow tank. 

Once we tightened the upper and lower mounting bolts, the radiator installation was complete. We reassembled the cooling system by reattaching the fan shroud, upper and lower hoses, and the coolant overflow hose. The overflow hose was originally routed to expel coolant from the radiator cap filler neck to the ground, but we routed it differently.

Above Left: We added 50/50 ethylene glycol and water to the radiator, continuing to add coolant as the engine warmed up. Above Center: The radiator cap was designed for an open cooling system. Since we had converted to a closed system, the cap would not work effectively without some modification. Above Right: We needed to add a seal to allow only the coolant to return from the overflow tank to the radiator. We carefully removed a seal from a used radiator cap. 

Above Left: We installed the seal over the center seal and spring. Above Right: The system was now sealed between the cap and the filler neck. With the seal installed, we added additional coolant to the overflow container.

Until closed cooling systems were employed (designs with overflow reservoirs introduced in the early-to-mid 1970s), the upper tank was filled to the top of the core. As an engine warms up, coolant expands by about 10%. The heated coolant would rise into the upper tank, and if the tank became full, excess coolant would be pushed out of the radiator through the cap and spilled onto the ground under the car. When the system cooled (coolant contracts), atmospheric pressure pushed air into the upper tank through the overflow hose and radiator cap.

Years ago, we added a coolant overflow tank. Therefore, when we installed the new radiator, we used our coolant overflow hoses, which routed the coolant from the radiator to the overflow tank. A second hose would direct the excess coolant to the ground if the overflow tank became too full. The upper radiator tank was filled to the filler neck on our closed cooling system. As the cooling system heats, the coolant is pushed into the overflow tank rather than the ground as it expands. Then the coolant is forced back into the radiator when the cooling system cools.

Above Left: We checked the transmission fluid level since we lost a small volume during the radiator swap. The fluid level was adequate, so we did not add any additional fluid. Above Right: The Glen-ray radiator fits perfectly and looks great. 

The radiator cap with the new radiator was designed to work with an open system, which was correct for a 1967 vehicle. We needed to add a rubber seal to the cap to convert it to operate with a closed system. The new seal ensured a leak-free connection between the cap and the radiator’s filler neck. We modified the cap by adding a seal we retrieved from a used cap. All that was necessary to install it was to slip it over the smaller seal and spring of the radiator cap.

With the radiator cap resolved, we filled the cooling system with 50/50 ethylene glycol and water. After warming up the 273, we adjusted the coolant level in the radiator before installing the cap. While the engine was up to temperature, we moved the transmission range selector through the gears before resting it in neutral. We then checked the transmission fluid level, which was within the preferred range, so we did not add any fluid.

Above Left: The fan shroud fits correctly on the Glen-Ray radiator. Above Center: Another angle shows how well the radiator and shroud fit. Above Right: The Glen-Ray Radiators representatives are ready to assist with all your Mopar cooling system needs. Just give them a call. 

After a month of driving the Dart, the Glen-ray radiator has worked flawlessly. In several 90°-95°F days, with plenty of humidity, the Dart’s temperature gauge needle never moved to the center of position of the gauge. Even in stop-and-go traffic, the coolant temperature remained steady.

The day we picked up our Glen-ray radiator, Schirmer stated, “The radiator is guaranteed for life, apart from impacts with deer, trees, and idiots.” If you need a muscle car-era radiator for your Mopar, give the reps at Glen-ray a call. The knowledgeable team will guide you to the best cooling products for your car, and the quality of their radiators will allow you to keep your cool for many years to come.

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Chris Holley

Technical Contributor Chris has been a college professor for 26 years; at Pennsylvania College of Technology in Williamsport, PA. for the last 21 years. Chris instructs automotive classes in HVAC, electrical/electronics, and high-performance, including using a chassis dyno, flow benches, and various machining equipment. Recently, he added a vintage vehicle upholstery class to his teaching assignments. Chris owns a '67 Dart, a '75 Dart, a '06 Charger, and a '12 Cummins turbo diesel Ram, and he is a multi-time track champion (drag racing) with his '69 340 Dart, which he has owned for 35 years.

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